So I’m in Freetown. It’s hot. And it’s more beautiful, dusty and extreme than I ever could have imagined.
Lack of power and decent internet connection in the capital city are major issues. When you *can* find a connection, waiting for a simple webpage to load can feel like a ‘Onetel’ dial-up connection circa 1997. Smoky diesel generators run everything, when they’re not breaking down of course.
I haven’t stopped working since I got here. There’s just too much to see. I can’t wait to display the images, but for now it will have to wait. The man who runs this internet cafe looks frail and really doesn’t need to see me ranting at the impossibly slow upload speeds of his pride and joy broadband connection.
I’m staying at an orphanage run by Ola Smart, director of Kids Action SL. Ola is an incredible man. As well as shadowing him and photographing the projects he’s involved in, I’m also writing an accompanying article, which I’m hoping to get published on my return.
We set off yesterday in the pick up truck to do a second day’s shooting at Songo Agricultural Training Centre for Ex-Combatants. As we were about half way through a 2 hour journey and heading out of town Ola took a call. A close friend of his had just lost a relative in a hit and run accident. The body was lying at the side of the road and needed picking up. It was about 2 miles from our intended destination.
We turned back to pick up Ola’s friend Emma and found ourselves waiting 2 hours in the midday heat as she fought through Freetown’s congested traffic to meet us halfway. Doing anything in this country takes at least 4 hours, and I figured we were not going to have sufficient daylight time to do the Songo shoot, so I made the call to cancel and Ola phoned through to let everyone know they weren’t needed so could go home.
We arrived at the site of the accident at 230pm to find the distressed relatives wailing with grief and shock. As I stepped out of the 4×4 I saw Sherrif’s body, head covered by an old rag. I’d already asked permission to shoot, but I was still aware of being intrusive and was doing my best to blend in. As much as a white man can at the side of a rural African village with a few grand of camera equipment slung round his neck. I needn’t have bothered. One of the relatives seeing what I was doing motioned for me to wait – so she could remove the covering of the face to display what was left of her cousin’s head.
I snapped in the heat and the wailing got louder. I snapped from every angle until I couldn’t anymore. I stopped and motioned to someone to say ‘enough, cover up the face’ But he wouldn’t, or couldn’t, so I did.
The men loaded the body on to the back of the open topped pick up. The wailing relatives clambered in next to the body and we set off back to Freetown, to deliver the body to his aging Mother. We were stopped at a police roadblock. Ola leaned over me in the passenger seat and shouted at the officer in Krio that we had been stopped already by this road block and we had just picked up a body to take back to Freetown. The officer gave the corpse a cursory glance and waved us on.
As we sat in silence, listening to the sounds of the distressed relatives coming from the back of the truck, I heard Ola talking quietly to Emma in Krio. It turns out that after Sherrif was killed at around 11pm the previous night, the police had turned up and simply lifted the body a few feet to the side of the road, and thus out of the way of oncoming vehicles, before returning to their roadblock to continue carrying out random mundane paperwork inspections.
The relatives had been left sitting with the heavily disfigured body for 15 hours overnight and through the midday heat as they waited for one of their friends to make the journey into Freetown to contact richer relatives who might have access to a vehicle to transport the body.
A few hours later I was invited, and went, to a party at the Norwegian Consulate’s house. Those attending included a cabinet minister, a diamond dealer from New York and local fashion and media celebrities. It was hard to make the transition. Social small talk seemed irrelevant and despite my ivory coloured linens and two tone brogues I felt uncomfortable and out of place. I’ve lived my whole life dancing between extremes. To a certain extent it’s been my ‘raison d’etre’. But today’s whirlwind of sadness and anger had left me exhausted, and yearning for a good, solid night’s sleep to allow the days event to settle a little easier in my mind. And of course, to shake off the claustrophobic, Edgar Allan Poe-like morbidity that I felt had entombed me.
Sleep. That was all I needed.
image and words © Jon Gee 2008